There’s a lot to like at Gaylord’s restaurant, located on a quiet street smack-dab in the middle of downtown Sacramento. I have been struck by the fact that, whenever I visit this fragrant restaurant, there are always—inexplicably—several parking spaces either right in front or directly across the street. That’s saying something, as parking always seems to be a big hassle associated with most downtown restaurants. And while that’s not the sole reason to visit Gaylord’s, it certainly is a nice perk. Another perk, of course, is the restaurant’s appealing cuisine, which will certainly scratch that “gosh, I am craving Indian food right this second” itch with which many of us are struck upon occasion. Indian food is a bit scarce in Sacramento, especially upscale Indian food, and Gaylord’s version includes crisp white tablecloths, a fancy, shiny silver lunch buffet and a hushed interior featuring mirrored walls, rich wood paneling and comfortable paisley-upholstered booths. A touch of whimsy, however, can be found in the bar, where a pretty light fixture in the ceiling simulates a darkened sky with twinkling stars, and a display of old sticker-covered traveling trunks and fake palm trees reminds one of an Indiana Jones movie set. Gaylord’s menu is divided into tandoori oven items, curries, seafood dishes, vegetarian items and biryani (savory rice dishes). If you’re new to Indian cuisine, consider this a colorful circus of dining opportunity and simply plunge in—we’ve always been perfectly happy with our blind selections. Bread will play an integral role in your meal—don’t miss the wildly delicious and aromatic garlic naan; the paratha, a buttered and layered whole wheat flat bread; or, one of the most intriguing choices—kabuli naan, stuffed with chopped cashews, golden raisins, and, no kidding, chunks of maraschino cherries. Tandoori items, cooked in a clay oven whose fiery interior exceeds 1,000 degrees, are excellent: Two favorites are the seekh kabab, roasted lamb kababs spiced with coriander and fennel; and the spicy, succulent chicken tikka kababs. Vegetarians will adore the aloo gobi, an innocent-looking dish prepared from cauliflower, potatoes and green bell pepper strips that scorches your palate with spicy-hot torridity; and the robust, aromatic channa masala, a stew of sturdy garbanzo beans with black cumin and fresh coriander. Other recommended items include the rogan josh, a fiery, traditional Kashmiri lamb curry; and the creamy chicken tikka masala, tandoori-roasted and served in a gentle fennel-tomato butter sauce. Sooth your burning mouth with the restaurant’s fruity lassi, a popular Indian beverage prepared from yogurt and pureed mango, and if by some miracle you save room for dessert, sweeten up your day with some gulab jamun, traditional housemade cheese dumplings dipped in sweet syrup. &mdash Kira O'Donnell

Insider tip: Good news for the budget-conscious: Gaylord’s handsome lunch buffet includes condiments, naan, salads, entree items and dessert for $12.50 per person.

Reservations: Recommended

Payment methods: AmEx, Diners’ Club, Discover Card, MasterCard, Visa

Alcohol: Full bar

Corkage fee: $15

Hours: Monday–Thursday: Lunch 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m; Dinner 5:30–10 p.m.
Friday: Lunch 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Dinner 5:30–10:30 p.m.
Saturday: Lunch Noon–3 p.m.; Dinner 5:30–10:30 p.m.
Sunday: Lunch Noon–3 p.m.; Dinner 5:30–9 p.m.